Cioppa

A Tuscan term or an overgown with sleeves, often made of a type of silk brocade, velvet or fine wool, worn by women over the gamurra or cotta, and also by men over the doublet…in the south they were called pellande, in Bologna, veste or sacche. Cioppe were often gathered (raccolta) in flat pleats (pieghe piatte) from the neckline; they could also be a cannoncini, that is, long and narrow. High-necked cioppe ‘accollato” were worn by older women. (Frick, pg. 306)

A type of overgown. The word is used in Tuscany and the Naples region, and is the equivalent of pellanda (north Italy) and the veste or sacco (Bologna and elsewhere). Towards the end of the century, the terms pellanda and sacco disappear, and are replaced by vestito, which refers to something rich and fashionable. The cioppa is a generous garment often with long hanging sleeves, which appear in a variety of forms. It is worn by women over the gamurra… In general, the longer, fuller, sweeping sleeves are worn in the north of Italy, whilst in Tuscany and the south, the sleeves of this overdress are more conservatively cut. The cioppa is often lined with fir or silk, depending on the season, the lining being turned back at the hem. Invariably, a richer or more valuable fur is used around the facings, whilst the majority of the cioppa is lined with more modest skins. (Herald, pg. 214-215)

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